Friday, December 26, 2008

A day in the life

My watch said 0430. A pair of roosters were doing their morning wake up call, which probably explains why I’m aware of the time. In my mind, the last two weeks are a blur, but I know that this day before Christmas is going to be a great one. I laid back down, secure in knowing that we were tied to a dock – the first one since Ensenada, what, two weeks ago? This Marina, Puerto San Jose, about 20 miles from Cabo San Lucas is grossly overpriced, but the shower last night – also the first since Ensenada – was almost worth it.
The first order of business today is to get online, Skype (phone) our daughters and write something interesting for this blog and check the weather. Then, we’ll take a taxi to town for groceries and find a nice place for dinner – I promised.
At 0900 I’ve been trying to get online for three hours, but nothing I do is working. (we found out later that we had been given a wrong password) Now I pack the laptop up to the Marina office, about a 15 minute fast walk, to see if they can help . They let me plug in to their modem, and joy to the world, the thing is working! I called the girls and left messages on both their phones, wrote a quick update to the blog so you folks wouldn’t worry, and handled our e-mail. On to the weather site. Uh Oh. “Honey, look at this. Unless we want to stay here for three or four more days, we’ll have to sail for La Paz tonight or early tomorrow in order to avoid a storm on Saturday.”
It’s now 1630 Christmas day, about 80 degrees, the sea is pretty calm, we’re motorsailing at about 5 knots with about 85 miles left to go. We sailed out of the marina at 0500 this AM and will reach La Paz sometime tomorrow, God willing. I ended up grilling hamburgers last night and Claudia is now making us some fine spaghetti with the extra ground beef. And so it goes. It just doesn’t get any better than this.
In the middle of dinner, the radar decides to stop working. Not good, as on this moonless night we will be threading our way between rugged coastline and volcanic islands with far reaching and shallow reefs. Oh Boy! As the charts, and therefore the GPS maps, date back to the 1800’s, this is a bit scary. Well, it was a night to forget. And so we will.
It is now late afternoon Friday the 26th. We’re tied up at Marina Palmira in La Paz with internet on board. Woo Hoo. Time to relax and get some rhythm back to our lives.

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Sojourner tastes the Sea of Cortez

We made it to Cabo San Lucas. Some adventure, but no problem. Trouble with computer and Internet connection as usual. Plan to get to La Paz next week and will update then.
Feliz Navidad

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

December 16, underway

Wow, a lot has happened since we last were able to post. First of all, we are doing great. After making it to Bahia Tortuga for last weekend and spending two nice days there, we are now in Bahia Asuncion, about 50 miles further south.
Turtle Bay was totally different than Ensenada. C took some pics to give you an idea, but here we walked dirt streets. And the Mexicans were all driving around in cars and trucks. In fact, we commented with friends from other boats there, that we were the only ones walking around. Everything was very dusty but the people mostly wore smiles and we felt welcome. Most prices were dirt cheap. Example, A water taxi from our boat to shore cost $1 per person each way, as compared to $4.75 in Avalon. A bottle of Corona is 150 pesos, about $1.25. And what is becoming a lunchtime favorite, fish tacos, are about 80 pesos. These are small, soft tacos with deep fried pieces of battered fish onto which you put your own trimmings like salsa, salad, beans, rice, you get the picture.
At the recommendation of an experienced sailor friend, Terry Cory, we sought out, found, and bought a super WiFi antenna to help us get hooked up on board, without having to go to town. Here, as in Turtle Bay, we’re anchored at least ¼ mile from shore, and with this antenna, we pick up several signals strong enough to hook up to. The only problem is, they are all secure and require passwords which of course we don’t have.
We’re sailing in company with one Gary, a solo sailor aboard Dash. Since Gary has an inflatable with a motor, we agreed to wait until this morning when he will blow it up and take us all into town. There, we will find an internet cafĂ© – I use the term loosely as the last one was in a furniture and novelty store – where we can hopefully post this. I must admit, we were on the internet in such a place in Turtle Bay, but because we were required to use their computer and I was focused on getting weather info, it never occurred to me that we could have posted something on the site for you. A senior moment which I will try not to repeat.
The sailing has been pretty good. Mostly using the motor too because of light winds, but no nasty seas or bitter cold anymore. Also, we routinely see porpoises now. They are remarkable to watch. We don’t know what attracts them, but they will swim with us sometimes only very briefly, and other times for a few minutes before wandering off. And sometimes there are only a couple of them, and other times there will be a dozen or more. These fish occasionally leap into the air with a hang time of more than a second. They can make your day.
Our plan now is to continue south with Dash, probably taking another week or so to reach Cabo San Lucas, still 350 miles away, maybe by Christmas. This will probably be our last opportunity to post anything until then, as we will be anchoring off very small villages. So Greetings and Best Wishes to all of you. E

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

On our way

It's Emrick's birthday today! We will be on our way this morning to points south skipping from bay to bay as daylight allows so you will not hear from us until we reach a place with internet again. That may be Turtle Bay which is 300 miles from here. The first pic to the left is the Mexican flag (a huge one) just near the marina we are staying in.


This is a street scene in Ensenada.




This is where we ate our first fish taco (yummy).




Ever wonder where the "Black Pearl" ended up? It is right here in Ensenada. I was sooooo excited to see it. They wouldn't let us into the yard to get close so this pic is taken from outside a cement barrier through a small gap in a fence. This pic does not do the ship justice because you can't see all the magnificent carving on the bow or aft.
Time to head out into the blue yonder. C

Sunday, December 7, 2008

One tequila, two tequila, three tequila . . . . .

I thought I should give you a little run down on our first day & evening in Mexico. Emrick seems to have skipped right by our "checking into the country process" & our first night here. What a riot. We decided to complete our checking-in process by ourselves (after we found out the cost for assistance had gone from $50.00 to $85.00). We were given directions & started out to the CIS building where all the paperwork is completed. Mind you, E & I had been sailing all night so our minds were not as quick as we would have liked them to be. The directions did not turn out to be that accurate but we found the building & began the process. There were four windowed sections that housed immigration, the port captain, customs & visa office. We proceeded to bounce from one side of the room to the other, handing the people behind the glass our pile of papers & watch as they pulled out what they needed from our pile, created new forms, had us complete new forms, pay them money for the transaction & then point us across the room to go see someone else. It was pretty comical because you use sign language & try very hard to understand what they wanted from you. During this two hour process we met Dean & Gary from the s/v Unda who were there to check-in as well. We had originally met them in Santa Barbara & it was nice to be able to talk with someone who spoke English & was in the same boat we were, so to speak. Needless to say when all was said & done we were exhausted but set a date to meet up with Dean & Gary later to go out for dinner. By the time we got back to the boat we had managed to walk around the town of Ensenada a little, get our bearings & check out some of the shops & restaurants. When we headed out for dinner that night E & I had no idea of what to expect but Dean & Gary had been to Mexico before so they were able to tell us what we could & should not eat, etc. So we ended up in an open air cafe where the people were very happy to have customers. We ordered fajitas. The food was good but different. Portions are smaller, the rice is white, the beans are a very dark brown, the tortillas are smaller but freshly made & the meat is not cooked with peppers, just onions. The waiter was very attentive & the minute the food plates were removed the tequila started. We did not order it, the waiter just set down little (1/2 shot) glasses & poured us each a full glass, gave us salt & limes & we drank the shot (the waiter had a shot with us). After a few minutes the waiter reappeared & again set down the little glasses, pouring us all another shot. By the 3rd round we decided we better get out of there while we could still walk. What a great evening. I LOVE this place!

San Diego Pics


This is just a little ol' ship that was across from us in San Diego. It had to be over 100 feet long. I wondered how they got the thing into the slip . . . .

This is the cruise ship that was behind us coming out of the harbor.

Greetings from MEXICO!!!!

Having spent the last month or so in California, I have to say my first impression is that the people look pretty much the same here, and they sound pretty much the same too. I still don’t understand Spanish.
We’re in Ensenada Mexico, just 65 miles south of San Diego, having left S D in kind of a hurry; we had planned to stay there a few days to rest up, relax, and recreate, but our marina had their showers under reconstruction. Well, anyone who knows Claudia knows that I had to do something. Every other marina I called wanted $2.00 per foot per night- $64 for Sojourner. Well, I choked and did the only thing I could. Leave. We’ll post pics of our departure, but you know how hard it is to get the really great stuff into a camera, so I’ll try and tell you about it while catching some rays, Bud in hand, and Spanish music in the background.
San Diego harbor is kind of busy. It is home to the U S Navy, commercial docks aplenty, and some 9,000 pleasure boats. It was about 4:00 PM when we left the dock with just over an hour of daylight left. About halfway out the 3 or 4 mile long entrance channel, I looked back and saw this monster white cruise ship steaming toward us. Tried to reach him on the radio, but no response. So, we took a hard left and got out of the way. The sunset was brilliant as the big ship passed by. Then, back into the channel, and we hear these two warships talking to each other on the radio about how they’re going to avoid running into each other. So, I look behind again, and this time, I swear, it’s an aircraft carrier climbing up our butt. Well, we know the drill. Hard to port! What a sight!
Then, back into the channel again and we see this other warship bearing down on us from dead ahead about 3 – 4 miles out. But we now know that he must be warship 88 from the earlier radio conversation and we’re able to radio him by name, so we arranged to avoid each other, and off we went. The rest of the night was a piece of cake, though the breeze was on our nose so we motored the whole night, arriving Ensenada about 10:00AM
As I write this, it’s Saturday, and the moon is now rising and looks to be about ¼ full, so, if we leave here on our 300 mile journey to Turtle Bay – the next fuel and services – by Monday or Tuesday, we should have good light at night. We all presently live 14 hours in darkness to get 10 hours of daylight, and while the days here in the upper 60’s are surely warmer than where most of you are, the nights, especially at sea, are still quite cold. Claudia is disappointed to find that she still needs her Carhart insulated pants and her Russian looking furry cap with the earflaps. I really should take a picture, but since she does the pic posting, you’d never see it.
Maxine is in the cockpit with me, and she’s giving me this look. You know the one. “You’ve been ignoring me. People want to know about me too.” Well, the fact is, she has been a good crew. She mostly stays where we put her and she doesn’t eat much, so I promise to include her more in the future. In the meantime, I’m working on my manyana (tomorrow is soon enough) and Margarita attitude. E

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Pics from our sail to Catalina & Avalon Harbor



Couple pics of the storm that was causing the water spouts & lightening as we sailed to Catelina. We were getting weather warnings over the radio as we were sailing.







Above are pics from Avalon Harbor.



Saturday, November 29, 2008

Saturday, Nov 29

We are now in our third day at Two Harbors, Catalina Island. We've read about and heard of this place for years; A Paradise Island getaway for southern California boaters. How could we be in the area without stopping here for at least a couple days?

The Island is interesting. With hills, trees and trails, many small coves along the coast, and the water is clear - we can see the bottom in 18 feet where Sojourner is moored. There are palm type trees everywhere and the little settlement of Two Harbors is really nice with a good bar and restaraunt, a well stocked general store and an outdoor amphitheater and BBQ that could handle hundreds.

Yet, we're both getting restless, anxious to move on, to get past the smog and the beautiful people and the $5.00 beers. Since we passed Point Conception a couple weeks ago, the weather and the ocean have improved to where our best days are now at sea going somewhere. At the same time, our cost of living has risen to where it just isn't much fun being here anymore.

So, tomorrow we'll sail the 12 miles to the town of Avalon on the east end of the island. This also puts us about 3 hours closer to our next stop at Oceanside, CA. We'll probably stay at Avalon for one part night, leaving about 3:00AM Monday to reach Oceanside during daylight. Then on to San Diego for a couple days before crossing into MEXICO!!!!! E

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Marina Del Rey

I am standing in our companionway with the computer sitting on top of hatch cover in order to get any internet. Well, at least it is working! We traveled to Marina Del Ray (Venice beach is right next door) yesterday leaving at 0400 & arriving at 1430. The early start was to avoid arriving at night. The ocean was pretty quiet. We tried to use the sails a couple of times but the wind was too flaky to give us any consistent boost. The forcast called for rain all day & we didn't see a drop until we were in the marina. When we pulled into the marina looking for the transiet dock we spied our friends on "Pomaikai" already tied up. Nice surprise. Our plan was to leave today but it looks like we will be traveling to Catalina island tomorrow morning. We have purchased a turkey with the trimmings that will probably be cooking on our way to the island. There have been some storms circling around the area. This mornings marine report talked about waterspouts & cloud to ocean lightening hence the delay in departure until tomorrow. We are wishing everyone a Happy Thanksgiving. C

Monday, November 24, 2008

Ventura Harbor Boat Yard







We arrived in Ventura Monday afternoon after a slow trip in the fog. I mean FOG. We had to thread our way through the oil rigs that we couldn't see & those pesky buoys that you find on the GPS but never find in real life. We had a few power boats come out of the fog near us & Emrick had to hail one of them move over. Once we arrived & found the harbor boat yard we slid into the area for the travel lift & up we went (the pics show you how that goes). The yard started work the next day. The rudder was in fact very loose & I guess that is to be expected after 30 years of use. They allowed us to stay in the boat while the work was being done which saved us some $. The work is done & we will go back into the water today to test out all the repairs. While sitting "up in the air" on Friday some friends we met in Morro Bay showed up looking for us. We had a great visit with them that night & they moved on to Marina Del Ray on Saturday to meet up with us in Catalina. We will be leaving for Marina Del Ray early tomorrow, stay the night & then move on to Catalina Island Wednesday. We plan to spend the holiday weekend there & then move on to San Diego.

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

$$$ from the bucket

Well, yet another change is taking place. We discovered yesterday that some steering difficulty we noted while enroute to Santa Barbara is related to the rudder & will require the boat to be hauled out to fix. We are not interested in paying the prices to have the work done here in Santa Barbara, so we are heading out early tomorrow to sail to Ventura where the cost is more reasonable. There was a cartoon posted in Morro Bay that showed a man driving his car 350 miles to a marina where his boat was docked, whistling all the way. When he got there, the cartoon showed him busily rummaging in his car & finally pulling out a large bucket. He continued to whistle while he walked down a long dock to his boat When he finally got to his boat, he threw the bucket's contents high in the air over his boat. Out came lots of $$$$, falling onto the boat and into the water around it. He turned around, walked back along the long dock to his car, got in & drove away, continuing to whistle. That is what it feels like. . . . . On a positive note we received our self steering part this am & Emrick already has it installed.
Just so you know I worked diligently on the pics yesterday. I have no idea why they are presented the way the are on the blog. I will keep working on it & I still have more to add. C

Monday, November 17, 2008

Santa Barbara

We entered the Bay of Santa Barbara about 0910 on Sunday after having passed the big bad Point Arguello & Point Conception with very little swell & no wind. The fascinating part of the night was seeing the oil rigs. They are huge & lit up with white, green & red lights. Some of them are four stories high. We needed to thread through them as they are scattered all over. There were a total of ten of them before we reached the bay. While on watch I had my first encounter with a large ship traveling at night. Notice I did not use the word fascinating. That ship came along side of us silently & because it was so dark the only lights it had that I could see was the starboard green light & a mast light. At first I didn't recognize them as moving lights, I just thought they were from shore. It took me a minute of staring to figure out it was a ship & moving fast along side of us. So, I did what any prudent sailor would do. I slowed down & prayed that it could see us or at least move past without getting too close. There wasn't enough time to use the radio to hail them. Thankfully it passed in front of us heading for an oil rig. Since the ship slid up behind us I was forever looking behind us the rest of the trip. The overnight was cool & damp. I kept waiting for the warmth that all the books talked about. We didn't feel it until the sun came out on Sunday morning. About one hour out of Morro Bay, on our way here, we ran over a kelp bed that ripped out a piece of our self steering. So, we decided to continue on even if we had to hand steer all the way. Our choice of Santa Barbara as a destination was to allow us a quick way to order & receive the new self steering part. Santa Barbara is a neat little harbor & once we were in our slip it was great to find out that the bathrooms were close by & we could get internet on the boat! Hence the timely posting of pics & narrative. Emrick has ordered the new part which should arrive tomorrow. He is down in the locker/storage part of the boat checking things out as I write. Our plan is to leave for Santa Cruz island (Tuesday or Wednesday depending upon how easily the new part can be installed), head to Catalina Island & then on to San Diego. We have no desire to port hop along California. It seems to take forever to get in & out of some harbors & we know the traffic will be increasing so our chosen path will allow us to bypass all of that. We don't know much about the islands but do not expect them to have internet so the next time you hear from us will probably be in San Diego. I am still working on the pics posting as I get use to this blog format. Just a note that if you double click on a pic it will enlarge it. Time to go & soak up some sun! See ya in San Diego . . . .

Monterey Bay & Cannery Row Pics












Santa Cruz Pics




























Saturday, November 15, 2008

Fort Bragg Pics


























Morro Bay

We made a quick decision to leave Monterey on Monday (that weather window thing again) around 1030 & arrived in Morro Bay about 0830 the next morning. Our overnight trip was full of wind (from the wrong direction) which was hard on the auto pilot. We had to give it a rest & steer but the moon was full & by about 0200 the wind had calmed down enough for us to reengage our auto pilot. Yes, for those of you who are wondering, I did participate in 2 hour watches from the time we left Monterey. That meant Emrick was “down below” getting rest & trying to warm up. I was aaaalll alone up top. Just me, the moon, the very large wind waves & a few intermittent lights on land. No sickness (that is very important to me) & I actually enjoyed steering our course. Funny what you can get use to.
Morro Bay was sunny & warm when we arrived. This bay is known for fog, a nasty bar & a big rock. We did not see any fog, the bar was very gentle & we did see a BIG rock.
We stopped at the fuel dock to fill up & then tied up at the Morro Bay Yacht Club dock. The club is the host to transients (there is that word again) since there is really no marina. What a super place to be. We tied up next to two sailboats heading south & got the “low down” on the place. The restrooms, laundry & shower were about 10 steps up the dock but we would have to travel for internet. Not bad. The sun has been with us since we arrived & it has been warm enough to dry out the boat. That dampness was getting on my nerves.
So, we are planning to leave tomorrow morning but are not sure of the destination. This stretch will take us around the fabled Point Arguello & Point Conception which are known for giving sailors a nasty ride. Our weather reports indicate we should have good weather. We are not sure if we will need to rest at Santa Barbara or decide to just keep on sailing as long as the food holds out. . . .
I have added pics for you all. I hope I can label each of them. One picture I did not take was of a 40ish male with long sandy colored hair, wearing a cowboy hat & speedo, with a body he obviously was proud of, standing on a surf board & paddling by our boat (multiple times) while smiling. The first time I saw him I was sitting in the cockpit with Emrick & Al & all I saw was from the shoulders up “float” by about a foot from the boat. It was so weird looking that I stood up to see how he was able to “float” & was greeted by the site I described above. I was temped to take a pic but after the 6th time he floated by I figured he had gotten enough attention. C

Morro Bay and the Morro Bay Yacht club have been fantastic. Our timing here couldn’t have been better as this place is usually rainy or foggy. We have had nothing but sunshine and temps around mid seventies. Just perfect. It’s been really fun watching the pelicans too. These ungainly, prehistoric looking creatures cruise around and then just drop out of the sky and sort of crash into the water as though they need some practice on their entry. No style points whatsoever, in fact we give high scores to the loudest and biggest splashes.

So tomorrow we’re off to round what is known as the Cape Horn of the Pacific. Point Conception is sort of a line of demarcation between north and south, warm and cool, and quiet and busy. Between the oil rigs and the hundreds of container ships feeding Wal Mart, etc., and thousands of pleasure boats, this next part of the trip should prove to be exciting. We’ll see. E

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Breaking out of Fort Bragg

A lot has happened since our last post. Sorry about that, but internet access has been rather hard to come by. At Fort Bragg, where we languished for a week, it was about a mile and a half walk up a serious hill for basic groceries or a Laundromat. The only Wi-Fi was a similar walk in another direction. It reminded me a lot of an airport; not user friendly. And, unlike Brookings, where folks offered us rides or cars, there was definitely none of that going on.
Anyway, we escaped from Fort Bragg early on Wednesday the 5th, easing out of the very picturesque harbor with smiles on our faces. The ocean was a little snotty but not too bad – it’s amazing what you can get used to. We sailed with the jib and the mizzen, the sun was out, and Sojourner was happy to be dancing again. Later that afternoon, when I began thinking about the 12 hours of night coming up, we watched as the fog grew closer from the west. Al and I made bets on whether we’d outrun it and be spared. I won. The wind direction shifted to dead in front of us and grew stronger, so we pulled down the sails and motored through the night making good just about 1 knot. We were grateful for our radar as we were slowly passing by the Farallon islands and the shipping lanes in and out of San Francisco (in the fog).
On Thursday and Thursday night we motored as the wind died and then filled in directly behind us. Now, we were moving again, making good about 5 knots, so down the coast we went.
Friday dawned a beauty of a day. Clear blue sky and blue water flat calm. We motored the last 10 miles to Santa Cruz watching the shoreline from several miles out trying to pick out the “conspicuous” amusement park near the harbor entrance. Finally, at around 9:00 AM we were at the offshore buoy for the harbor entrance. We were all pretty exhausted, but cheered by the warming sun, and decided it was time to enjoy it for a while. Shutting down the iron beasty , the silence was magnificent. While fresh coffee perked on the stove, we removed layers of clothing and foul weather gear and just soaked up the sun and the sights. Boats were exiting the harbor as if it were Saturday, seals crowded onto the buoy all barking, and pelicans, looking totally prehistoric, flew near. It was spectacular.
Santa Cruz turned out to be another non user friendly place. No groceries or internet, so we weren’t excited about staying for the few days while a weather system worked on through. Then, Al decided it was time for him to get back to his life in Brookings. We picked up a rental car and, after a fine dinner at the Crows Nest, he was on his way. Al had been a great companion. In addition to helping us through the cold nights, he taught us a great deal about sailing and navigation. He will be missed.
Saturday began by looking like a repeat of the beautiful Friday we had just enjoyed. Claudia and I decided that we could both get a head start on our next passage and put ourselves in a more “user friendly” place by sailing the 20 miles across Monterey Bay to Monterey. So, off we went. Sails up and quietly zooming at 4 – 5 knots. Sojourner was happy and so were we. Then, clouds moved in. And about 5 or 6 miles from our destination, fog rolled in. Then it began to rain. Oh well. I kept hearing Al as though he were still with us. “it will be all right, just keep going”. And so we did, and we’re now tied up in beautiful Monterey Harbor anxious to check out the museums and nearby Fisherman’s Wharf. Yet we still have to go somewhere to access internet service. I sure got spoiled having it onboard in Winchester Bay and in Brookings. E

Monterey is really something. Coming into the harbor in the rain was a new experience. Those are the times you wish you didn't wear glasses! There is lots to see here with all the history behind the harbor & the many shops for us tourists. We found out why the internet is so hard to find in these harbors. Apparently the state will not let the harbors have their own internet because of all the private internet companies that are available. Something about free enterprise but it sure makes for finding WiFi service a chore. We are waiting out another weather pattern that should pass by Tuesday so we can move on to the next harbor. At this pace we might be in Mexico before Obama takes office. C

Friday, October 31, 2008

Greetings from Fort Bragg

It was a wonderful afternoon sail. The sun was finally out, the water was deep blue, the swells and the wind both pushing our small world in the right direction. After being in cold fog since yesterday (10/27) when we left Brookings, this was truly exciting. The sails were up and pulling us at nearly six knots, and we were pretty sure we had another whole day of good weather, so we looked forward to reaching Bodega Bay, about 60 miles from San Francisco.

Then we started finding bits and pieces of what looked like a nylon bushing of some sort on the floor of the cockpit. Where did these come from?!? It didn't take long to figure out after our self steering stopped working. And we require two of these bushings which of course we did not have on board.

Now, in order to continue, one of us would have to be at the helm steering at all times, and the helm on Sojourner is completely exposed to weather. So we decided to pull into Fort Bragg, only 25 miles from our curent position where we could order and have the parts delivered.

While we enjoyed the rest of the sunny afternoon, we couldn't help but notice that the entire coastline (we had been sailing about 12 miles out) was completely shrouded in heavy fog. That of course, included where we'd find Fort Bragg at about 10 PM on a moonless night. We do have radar and and GPS, but the thought of navigating at night in thick fog to and into an unfamiliar harbor went against every advice I had ever read. Yet, our new mentor, Al, kept assuring us that it would be fine.

I was at the helm concentrating on steering a rather precise course and couldn't hear the conversation, but I did hear Al on the VHF radio "requesting assistance" from the Coast Guard at Ft Bragg. About a half hour later, we spotted their 47 footer which had come out to lead us in. Things were looking up!

It was about 10:30 PM when this tired crew crossed the Noyo river bar and began winding our way up river under a tall Hwy 101 bridge and then through a very old harbor district straight out of Disney's Pirates of the Carribean. Finally, I heard the Coast Guard directing us to turn right and into the 3rd slip on the right where we would soon be tied up for the night. E

It has taken us until today to get to Wi-Fi so we can post. Fort Bragg is a very pretty setting but you have to put on your hiking boots to get to the internet, groceries, & laundry. People are nice but like most other harbors that are focused on fishing they have taken quite a hit in the last 10 years. A fisherman told us yesterday that in 1988 the Fort Bragg fisherman pulled in the most fish (about 8 million pounds) on the Pacific Coast. Many of the fisheries have closed & fishing boats are for sale. Emrick was right about the Pirates of the Carribean image when we sailed under Hwy 101 to enter the harbor. Quite a sight but we were so focused on entering the harbor & docking that it was impossible to interpret all we were looking at. Our trip down here was pretty good, still cold but the ocean was great. Sailing in fog was really eerie & following the coast guard (actually following their white light because you couldn't see the boat at all due to the thickness of the fog) was a trip. There was lots of hollering back & forth between Al & Emrick during the process. We should have used the headsets Eli but we completely forgot about them. Live-n-learn. C

Monday, October 20, 2008

We're still here . . .

Yes, we can still be found at the transient dock in Brookings. Our third crew member Al is returning this week & we will be looking for yet another weather window which will allow us to move on down the road. So far the weather looks like it has us locked in until early next week, but you never know. I believe that Emrick & I have walked almost every inch of Brookings Harbor. If anyone has any questions about the harbor please feel free to ask. We have tested the "best clam chowder in the universe" (it was pretty good), watched football in the VooDoo lounge (& tried out the game machines), done some woodwork on a small boat in the marina and I have personally hit the Salty Dog coffee bar more times than I care to admit. The last few days here have been overcast & cooler. We have watched quite a few boats come & go on the dock here. Some we are able to talk with but others are only here for a quick stop & out again very early the next day. Jenifer, Kristen & Linsey came to visit for a Friday evening about a week ago & Kristen came out for an overnight this past Friday. She was kind enough to stay for most of Saturday so we could use the car to get laundry & food shopping done. Maxine has not complained a lot but I did hear a grumble recently about how her skin was beginning to look rather pale due to lack of sun & she keeps talking about fish tacos . . . .
If you are interested in reading a story about ocean sailing, pick up the book "Maiden Voyage" by Tania Aebi. It is about an 18 year old who sailed around the world alone.
So, I expect you will next hear from us when our plans are firm about going south. Hope you all have a great week. Me, I'm headed for the Salty Dog . . .

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Ship's log October 12

I was awake early this morning, and heard the wind blowing harder than expected. Then at 7:00 when I stuck my head out to see the day, it was cold, low to mid forties I guessed. We were planning to escape from Brookings today, to sail past Crescent City to the next harbor at Humboldt Bay, CA, some 80 miles away. In a vessel that runs anywhere from 3 to 6 mph, it should be easy to understand that this simple trip would take longer than the 5 or 6 hours of a warm afternoon to complete. In fact, I planned the trip for about 20 hours. Now, we all know that I can't tolerate cold, so, what in the world was I thinking?

When we sailed away from Winchester Bay, we had a third person aboard - one experienced sailor named Robert. It was this third person, who could take some of the night watches and allow me to warm up that made the trip possible for us. But alas, since we've laid over in Brookings for most of his available time, and for other personal reasons, Robert had to bail out a couple days ago. And though I've stressed and agonized over it, I just can't convince myself that we can do this without the third person. We need to be in warmer weather.

A couple days ago I heard about a sailor living here in the harbor who had recently helped another cruiser get down to San Francisco. Last night Claudia and I were invited to a BBQ where we met a man named Alan - the sailor I had heard about. Today we showed Alan our Sojourner, and he agreed to help us get down the coast. He has other committments for a couple weeks, but then we should be getting this show on down the road.

Interesting how things work out isn't it?

Emrick

Saturday, October 11, 2008

Escape from Brookings

One of the things that is most difficult about cruising is deciding when to make our passage to our next destination. We look for where we want to go, how strong & from what direction the wind is coming at us, how high & how frequently the ocean swells are occurring and how long it will take us to get where we want to go. We look for a weather window that will allow us to get there safely & with the least amount of "rockin-n-rollin". Since the weather seems to change hourly, the plans that you make one day may change by the next. That said, we are hoping to leave tomorrow morning, heading for Humbolt Bay/Eureka. We met the captain of the SV Patience a few days ago. He, his wife & their sailing dog Zoro are one their ways south as well & may be leaving with us. Just a few minutes ago a power boat settled behind us on the transient (that word does not have a nice ring to it, does it) dock. They are from Seattle & headed for Eureka tomorrow. Apparently another power boat they are with is about an hour behind them but will also be heading south. A flotilla!! It is nice to have people around again. Since our friends from Berit J left on Monday it has been very quiet around here. I sure hope they are catching tuna!
Emrick & Claudia

PS Emrick is the one who received the knock on the head from the boom, not me.

Monday, October 6, 2008

Maxine

Maxine has finally consented to being introduced to everyone. She thinks this blog is pretty outrageous but she is now willing to "go along" as it is her only way to get to warm waters.
Maxine was hired on as crew just before we left Salmon Harbor. She told us stories of having sailed with David Crosby (of Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young) and Jimmy Buffett (of Margaritaville fame). Recently she has been residing on the SV (sailing vessel) Footloose in Salmon Harbor. Her captain Ted let her know that we were bound for the Sea of Cortez and she decided it was time to see some sun. Maxine doesn't eat much, is pretty quiet, likes movies and enjoys sitting on deck, all of which is good, but her proficiency at sail handling and covering a watch leaves something to be desired. I guess I use the word "crew" loosely. Anyway, I'm sure you will see her in the future as she shares our passage. Well, Maxine is headed out on deck to absorb some much appreciated rays of sunshine. Me, I'm headed for the shower . . . . .

Weather weather everywhere

It's not that we don't like Brookings. I mean, we have a sturdy dock to tie to, shorepower, water, and even WI FI. And we've met some incredibly nice people here too. But warm waters are calling. Sometimes I even think I hear Maxine grumbling. Oh. I guess we haven't told you abour her yet. We'll work on that. And I'll try to get a pic for you, but she's been acting rather shy lately.

Anyway, yesterday, based on a forecast of poor but improving, we set out for Eureka, CA. This straightforward 80 mile trip should have been a simple overnight leg with stickman steering the boat for us. Instead, after 1 1/2 hours with conditions certainly getting worse, we turned back and are again tied up at the dock in Brookings Harbor for what looks like another week. We're waiting for a hole or window in the seemingly never ending parade of systems that are marching across the Pacific.

I'm confident that one day we'll be able to write you about exotic people and places, private warm water anchorages, magnificent sunsets, and all manner of experiences with sea life. But right now, as long as we're stuck here, it's about whether I can watch Monday night football tonight.

Thursday, October 2, 2008

Hanging out

We're laid over in Brookings because of some strong weather that's arriving and looks to last a while. So it's a good chance to remedy the few boat problems discovered on the trip so far. On Saturday night in the nasties we did an accidental jibe where the boom came flying across the cockpit and nailed me in the forehead. That was bad enough, but had I been standing, it could have put me in the water. We are now rigging a "preventer". Also found a young man to dive under the boat and replace the prop shaft zinc that was lost somehow on the way here.

Yesterday in Brookings was the first day of a very short and long awaited salmon fishing season/derby. When we walked to the laundromat in the RV park at the shore in the AM, we were treated to quite a sight. The ocean looked relatively mellow, but good sized waves were crashing to shore, and behind them, almost lined up from the bar out the channel for maybe a mile, rising and dropping in the swells were about 40 or 50 small fishing boats. It looked almost like you could have walked out the channel from boat to boat. I had been whining about the fact that what used to be a simple 5 minute chore at home had become a 2 hour chore here in our new life. Shame on me. Had we been able to just walk into the laundry room, put in the clothes, and leave, we'd have missed both this spectacular sight and meeting up with Jimmy, our bartender from Monday Night Football at the local bar, who offered us a ride back to the boat. Life is good.

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

We made it to Brookings

Sojourner & crew made it to Brookings about 4pm on Sunday. Wow, what a trip. We left the dock on Saturday under sunny skies with a single reefed mainsail, full mizzen and about 100% on the jib. By mid afternoon, we had reefed the jib to about 70%, put the 2nd reef in the main & were still moving at 5-6 knots. By nightfall we had shortened the jib again to 50% & the wind had picked up to 15-20 knots. The seas were "short" so we were rocking & rolling. Through the night the winds had to hit 25 knots & my initiation to this trip was in full force. We ended up dropping the main completely, bringing down the jib to a handkerchief. Words like "miserable" & "frantic" come to mind. Near the last of a very long night the wind died to 5 or less knots & we ended up firing up the diesel to motor us the rest of the way in. At 3-4 knots with the diesel the "rest of the way in" seemed to take us forever. The night ride was something I do not care to repeat but guess what, I didn't get sick. It took us until this am to get the internet set up to use, figure out how to use their shorepower & unwind a little. We also received some super pics of Sojourner leaving the dock & crossing the bar. Thanks Nancy!!! I will post some this afternoon.

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

It is getting close . . . . .

We have gathered most of our stuff for the journey and plan to be leaving for the boat by Thursday. Somehow packing for 6 months is no longer my favorite thing to do. Emrick keeps looking at my "piles" and shaking his head. It must be a guy thing. All the females out there understand that packing for 6 months is traumatic. I have never had to decide how much of anything I use in 6 months. I just hope it all packs into the car . . . . Sorry there are no pictures but we lost the "sensor" part of our camera (spendy little item) and had to purchase a new camera. We should have photos before we leave. Most of you know that Emrick has been spending time at the boat working on his "to do list". What you don't know is that he has found time to do a little "crab festing" with some of our new friends on the dock. I love eating crab. Emrick has always told me he does not like crab and when ever I brought up crab pots he would wrinkle his nose. Apparently our friends cook the crab in a new and wonderful way. Emrick now likes crab. So, on the top of my "to do list" is getting in on a crab fest before we leave. Well, the next time we talk will be from Reedsport floating on the water.

Monday, August 18, 2008

Sojourner's Journey

This is the spot! Here you will be able to share the ongoing saga of Sojourner and her travels down the western coast of the United States and the Baja. We hope to create a log of our journey that will allow you to experience right along with us. The key word being "hope". We are new to blogging and even, in my case, new to ocean sailing. Emrick has been laboring diligently for the past month getting new equipment installed, testing new equipment that has been installed, calling suppliers who sent us the wrong equipment to be installed, reinstalling new equipment that has already been installed, etc., etc., etc. I have always thought that medical equipment was the top of the list for expensive gizmos but I stand corrected. I am appreciative of our new "head" (toilet) so I can't complain (sure didn't want anything to happen to that special piece of equipment while in use) but it will be a long time coming before I make cushion covers again.
At this time our expected date of departure is September 25th, weather permitting. For you sailors that is a THURSDAY, not Friday. We have no intention of offending the sailing gods this early in our adventure. I may need to speak to those gods quite frequently at the beginning of our trip so I plan to be very careful indeed!