Holiday Sails

It was one of those days that one can only dream about; the kind that no amount of planning can produce. We, that would be Claudia and I, and Mitch and Laura from sv Hanali, have been going absolutely stir crazy from being tied to the dock. Even Maxine had been making noises. Sooooo



The day dawned a chilly 52 degrees - an all too common theme lately - but the sky was clear. And the forecast was for sunny, calm winds and seas with the high to be around 75. I feel an idea coming together....... By 10:00, the lines were cut and we were underway.





The sea was like glass as we motored out of the harbor to the channel that would take us to deep water. About an hour after leaving the dock, we shut down the engine to simply enjoy floating three or four miles ftom land. It was one of those rare experiences with a sea like glass for as far as we could see. The girls were creating wonderful smells in the galley, and Mitch and I were just enjoying the whole scene when I thought I felt a puff of air. By the time we had finished a fine lunch, there was an actual breeze, so we did the only thing we could - get the sails up!! Soon we had a consistent 10 - 12 knots of breeze and we were flying along about 6 knots (about the speed of an easy jog, but just about max speed for our hull). Woo Hoo!! It was a pretty super four hours of fun.

12/31 Tonight being New Years Eve, we have reservations at the "Roadhouse" for dinner and live music. Unlike the U S with all the big parties, this night is primarily a family night here in Mexico. I remember being almost dumbfounded last year finding most places closed and nothing to do, so this year should be fun. We're looking forward to Blues by a group from Las Vegas and good old Rock and Roll later on. Wonder how long Claudia and I can stay awake?

Here's wishing you all an exciting 2010 !! E

Merry Christmas to ALL !!

It's been really hard to feel like it's Christmas this year. It's just sooo different here. Then, this morning we got an e-mail from our daughter Jenifer with this attached. Check it out.

http://elfyourself.jibjab.com/view/mlwj1dV8mNx5L5RNBg2g

There are some decorations here in Baja, but they're mostly small and simple, not the Las Vegas gaudy type stuff that we're used to at home, yet still very enjoyable. And, many of the stores have special toy sections and Christmas candies and stuff. We even said hello to Santa Claus at the supermercado the other day - that was kind of a treat. Yesterday, we were invited to have free coffee and pastries at a local restaraunt. Their way of saying thank you to customers. So the Christmas spirit is alive and well. It's just different. I think it's the lack of television - the constant barrage of commercials urging people to spend more and more - that makes it feel so different. There's no pressure, and it's a joy.

Well, here's wishing everyone a very Merry Christmas.

WHAAAAT"S UP???

Well, we are. In this photo from friends on s/v Red Pepper, we're about 10 or 12 feet above the concrete with Sojourner cradled in the slings of what is called a Travellift. This device - a likely candidate for a transformers movie - is what picks boats out of the water and puts them back in. I will say that it's a rather strange feeling, sailing in mid air as it were, moments before splashdown.

That was about three weeks ago. Since then, we've been getting used to our new digs, making new friends and enjoying some old ones.



Here's a shot of our Thanksgiving dinner celebration.

A local cruisers club, clubcruceros.org put on the feast with help from about 100 or so pot luck dishes. I'm told that 250 folks signed up to attend. I couldn't prove it, but it certainly was busy as this photo shows only about half. And there was a LOT of really good food too. Out of this crowd, we knew about a dozen and had a fine time with them.









Sadly, the boat sales business is not taking very much of our time, or producing any results as yet. So, we continue to upgrade our little home and we do a lot of walking. Here are a couple of street scenes we thought you might enjoy. This Cathedral is near our marina and is still under construction. I hope you get a feeling for just how large this building is. There's a lot of concrete in this job!! and I believe the dome is clad in copper sheet. Quite impressive. We walked to it this morning to get this shot and see a bit of the inside. The inside is a huge open chapel but very plain - maybe it's waiting for the outside to get finished before getting dressed up. Because of the
people inside, it didn't seem right to try for a pic.





Here's a shot of a nearby neighborhood that shows just how colorful things can be here. You have to admit, it actually looks pretty good?!?!

Now, it's time for a siesta. Then, this evening we plan to have dinner with friends at a place called Banditos. An outdoor restaraunt amid palms and with candles for most of the lighting. Plastic tables and chairs, but very inviting with great food prepared on a grill set under the hood of an actual '57 Chevy. I think JD would really like this place. Afterwards, we'll be looking for a place to watch Monday Night Football. Until next time........E

REVOLUTION !!

We awoke to a trumpet call from the nearby Navy barracks. A little later, someone said that it looked like maybe there was going to be a parade. That sounded good to us, so, walking shoes installed, we set out for the Malecon and downtown.




This is what it looked like when we got close to the action. There was going to be a party, and everyone, I mean everyone, was invited. This is Friday in La Paz. A special Friday to be sure. A celebration of the Revolution which took place, I believe, 99 years ago. Wonder what it will look like next year !?






It was a really fun parade!! First the little kids - gradeschoolers, all lined up in uniforms for their school, and marching. Well, sort of. But having fun - out of school at least. Then, the older kids, each class in their own colorful outfits. Then we had boxing clubs, karate clubs, kung foo clubs and others, each dressed up and doing demonstrations. What a kick. Oops, no pun intended.








One thing each group had for sure was a rolling boom box to provide the LOUD. Reminded us of driving the streets of Grants Pass, only these could actually be heard for blocks. These sound systems would support a local band, and some were elaborate while others were just thrown together in the back of pickups. I've tried to give you a couple of pics. Too bad you can't hear them.

Then came the military and the police. They were not to be outdone by the kids, all dressed to kill. Oops! We called these guys the stealth dudes. The local police had a Motorcycle group that would have given the Seattle Cossacks MC Drill Team a run. Sorry, no pics.

These guys are everywhere, here and there, all the time. Amazing what you get used to...........
Anyway, the parade was a fun filled two and a half hours. "let's go find some fish tacos".

Oh, we've been working too. We put the dinghy together in the water yesterday and put on the motor for the first time (thanks Dennis, the mount is perfect) . It worked perfect!! WooHoo! And I'm putting together a set of lazy jacks that will help make it easier to lower the mainsail.

Well, it's dinnertime. Baked potatoes with onions in foil on the grill and smothered in vegetables and all the beer I can drink. Mmmmmm

E

The Cow Sign

This is the famous "cow" sign. We first saw the sign last year when we made out now famous trip to see the whales. At first they look to be just routine, stamped out traffic signs but the more you watch them go by the more fun they become. The sign is telling you to look out for cows, since all of the Baha is free range. I will throw in a few pics of those free range cows later but back to the sign. As we traveled further into the interior of the Baha the signs changed. I wish I would have been able to take pics of them all but it took me 5 trys to get this one. You will need to put your imagination cap on. The first signed I noticed that looked strange had both of the cows legs pointed in so it looked like the cow was balancing on a very small rock. The second sign had very small critters (black like the cow, shaped like "stick" foxes) riding on the cows back. After that I was actively looking for the signs to see what would come next. There were signs with bullet holes for eyes, bullet holes as a halo around the cow, little baby "stick cows" running along side the big cow, cow "poop" (piles of it), one cow with an umbrella, one cow trying to sit down, one cow pretty much obliterated by bullet holes & last but not least the 1/2 cow (somehow someone scratched off the top half of the cow). There were many more missing a leg or with a herd of small critters running along side. Emrick had to miss most of them because his eyes were glued to the road for safety but I had a lot of fun. So, that's the cow sign.

Back in Ole Mexico

Sojourner's new home. (She's the small one)

It was an unusual, yet somehow comforting feeling. Claudia and I looked at each other and smiled. An old familiar burden had been lifted. Just, gone. And replaced by something new. It was immediately recognized, I believe, by both of us. The knowledge, almost painfully obvious by our surroundings, that we were once again responsible for ourselves.

That was a Wednesday morning as we drove out of customs and immigration into Tijuana Mexico. What followed was three days of the most intense driving I've ever experienced. Roughly 1000 miles of the famed Mx Highway 1 down the length of the Baja Peninsula. While the road is all paved, save for a few spots not yet repaired following the recent Hurricane Jimena, the condition, by American standards varied from good to are you kidding? But at least it was consistently VERY narrow. And as there were no shoulders, you absolutely dare not go over the white line at the edge. It made my memory of the narrow two lanes of western Pennsylvania seem like childs play.

Yet while the drive was totally challenging, it was equally magnificent. The first two days had us climbing steep grades - often in second gear - round and round, in and out, through switchbacks and canyons with no room for error, nowhere to escape. Then we'd arrive at a top to the reward of an incredible vista. Miles and miles of valleys, mountains, desert, rock, cactus, and occasionally the blue ocean. And, because of the rains from Jimena, everything was alive and green. I've never seen desert like this. Just spectacular! The whole package was sensory overload. Claudia did a good job with the camera, but alas, it's still unable to capture the vistas or the grandeur of it all. I guess you just have to be there.

Our good old van - for which we are taking name suggestions - made the trip without a whimper. Even gave us nearly 18 mpg and a good night sleep just north of L A . Thanks again to Kenny, Peter, Scott & Donna, Kristen, and Les Schwab for their efforts in preparing said van.

On our arrival in La Paz, we promptly checked into a "no tell" Motel. All I saw was a newer, clean looking place with an actual garage for a fair price. The guards at the office with the blacked out windows, and just the clandestine nature of the place, and a rate for an eight hour stay came into focus as we found the TV had a couple of porno channels and Mexican game shows. Oh Well. It was a well deserved air conditioned evening respite after the drive and the two miserable days preparing Sojourner to splash. Oh. We were now in a little bit different climate than what we left in Oregon. Sunny, daytime temps in the low 90's and 80% humidity should leave little to your imagination. It was HOT.

Then, last Monday, the Travellift gently lowered Sojourner into the Sea, and we were back aboard. We spent the entire week moving items from our storage unit back to the boat. And, of course, we had to find places to put all the stuff that we brought with us too.

Amidst the sweat and frustrations, we had a bit of good fortune too. That came in the form of a slip in a fine little marina just a few blocks from downtown and a few steps from friends we met last spring. There's still plenty of work to do, but now the pressure is off and we can begin to relax. In fact we're leaving now to watch football aboard m/v Penalty Box with cold beers and good friends.

Emrick left out the sand fleas that attacked me when we first got into our storage unit. I didn't feel a thing but the next day I looked like I had a case of the measles. Wonderful. We have a few more pictures I would like to share of our trip down, especially the "cow sign", but those will wait until next time. . . . .

E & C

Home, Sweet ..........back in Grants Pass

So even this guy is giving me the look..........You know, the HEY! where the hell have you been? Well, I can't think of a single excuse for not writing sooner. I guess we've just been having too much fun getting plugged back into the real world.

The answer to the most asked question, is, no. Claudia has not left me yet, even though I can't promise her an actual onboard shower or a real mattress to sleep on for our return to the Sea this fall. Yet. We have acquired a little outboard motor for our dinghy, but Sojourner is still ours. She has been shown a few times, so there are buyers out there, but no sale yet. We are stlll, however, optimistic.

In the meantime, let's see if some new pictures
will help. Here's Claudia amidst some of the very
expensive plastic storage containers we filled
with our personal stuff. You see, expecting our
boat to be sold, we were forced to remove all of
our stuff and put it into storage for the summer. At least this way, when our buyer does appear, we won't have to travel to LaPaz.

So here is our Sojourner resting on the "hard". I hope there are some more boats in the yard there by now. She looks rather lonely....

Here's a shot from the top of the mast. I've always wanted to take one of these, but in fact I forgot the camera the first time up, so we got to do it again!?!?!? Hey, it's my scrapbook, so I get to put the stuff in it that I want.

The two weeks before leaving LaPaz were hectic to say the least. But we finished on time and had Sojourner hauled out on the 24th. We spent the night in a great little hotel in the city and left the

next day in Dario's truck for Puerto Escondido. You may recall that this is where we were introduced to Dario and his Ballena about six weeks earlier.

The road trip was fascinating. I've never thought of desert as being beautiful before seeing the Baja, but it really is. So many colors, huge cactus, and mountains and the occaisional view of the blue Sea for background. And don't forget, the very twisty road . These temples - not all quite as elaborate as this one - were everywhere to remind us to pay attention to the road.

Hopefully, this shot through the windshield gives

you some idea of the grandeur. It really was quite a trip.

The view from the balcony at the Singlar Marina Puerto Escondido. Here we spent the afternoon and night with Dario aboard Ballena. A good time was had by all.

Claudia enjoying Ballena's cockpit, rum baba in hand.

A couple shots of the nearby city of Loreto where we explored for a few hours before boarding our bus for Tijuana. And the rest, as they say, is history. Well, there was the nineteen hour bus ride. US Customs - not bad actually. the $60 cab ride to a car rental place. Breakfast at Denny's!! and a first meeting with my Cousin John Pohling of San Diego. Then a two day drive to home in Grants Pass.

So, the real question is would we do it again? Stay tuned. E

Sojourner is for sale......

Greetings from our new marina, still in LaPaz, but in the boonies. Marina Singlar will be home for a couple of weeks while we prepare Sojourner to spend the summer on concrete. Actually, we've had some really good fortune come our way. I don't think this guy in the pic had anything to do with it, but it seemed like a good place to show him off.

We have been working our butts off trying to get Sojourner looking as good as possible - Three coats of paint with sand in the first coat for new non-skid on all her decks. Now we will be doing some varnishing inside to spruce that up as well. I'm looking forward to not being able to touch certain places in our small home for days at a time. It's really a lot of fun as you might imagine. At the same time, we have a long list of projects to complete before we can leave. I won't bore you with the list, but on it is the removal of all our personal stuff that we don't want to go with the boat if she sells.





Anyway, on to our good fortune. We've entered into one of those rare Win Win situations with the owner of the boat we're trying to purchase. He has a pickup truck which he needed to insure and have driven up to Loretto, Mx where he is sailing to next week. We dearly need transportation for getting our personal stuff into storage and for just getting around in our new location. And, Loretto is on our way home. So, as you've guessed by now, we bought some insurance.

So here's the new plan. We've paid for two weeks here at Singlar, and it will take all of that to accomplish our list. If that does work out, we will have Sojourner hauled on about the 24th and then drive up to Loretto - about 100 or so miles up the baja. Once there, we may stay a couple days, then pick up a bus to Tijuana, then San Diego where we plan to rent a car and take two or three days to drive home to Grants Pass.

The link below is to the Ad on Yachtworld which is our main sales tool in case anyone wants to check that out. E
http://www.mazmarine.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?&units=Feet&id=2050788&lang=en&slim=broker&&hosturl=mazmarine&&ywo=mazmarine&

The trip back . . .

This is a picture of the friends that we have been sailing with in the sea. On your left is "Hanali", Mitch & Laura, next is "Friendship" with Gloria & Sal and we are on the right. We are all sitting in the cockpit of "Friendship" which is a 45 foot Hunter.

On our way back to La Paz we stopped with "Hanali" for a few days at Puerto Evaristo & hit the shore to check it out. (Kristen, notice the hat).

This is Evaristo, further along on our walk. Most of the villages are a lot like this one with dirt roads & small homes near the shore.

This is "Hanali" motoring along side of us on our way back to La Paz.

We're sailin'!!!

Here is "Ballena", the boat we would love to buy. It is a 41 foot CT & has been sailed by the same captain for 25 years in the sea. It has it all & is the reason for our return to LaPaz to get "Sojourner" ready to sell.

Carnival and more . . .

Carnival lasted a week in La Paz & we were able to get both night & evening. The first few pics are of some of the floats on parade night. I was up on a plastic chair we "borrowed" from on of the restaraunts on the malecon taking pictures.

We had the fire throwing jugglers .. .. ..

and the mime who had quite a crowd around him as he had fun with the kids .. .. ..

Pic to the right was quite "interesting" but we never were sure what exactly was going on. The small figurines were balanced on the shelves & you paid $ for shots with a bb gun. Apparently when you hit the correct # of figurines one of the small glass cases would come alive & sing/dance. The ugly guy in the middle might also come alive & yell a bunch of stuff in spanish. ??

Here is how spanish kids learn to fly .. .. .. Knock the monkey over & win a . . . . doll!

They had a ton of these stands, all candied fruit ..

After leaving La Paz we took a week "hopping" from one anchorage to the next working our way north gradually. Last Tuesday found us arriving in Puerto Escondido were we met up with friends from "Hanali". It was good to see Mitch and Laura again, and that's when things got hectic - not their fault though. Claudia and I had just begun talking about what a neat place this Sea of Cortez is, and how great it would be to have folks come here to visit and enjoy it with us. But, sadly, Sojourner is not up for taking on guests. She's just too small, and lacks certain amenities which we didn't know we'd need..........showers, electricity, a hot rod dinghy, etc. So, Hanali introduced us to their friend on a 41 foot boat with all the goodies. And it was all for sale. That was yesterday as the song goes.

We're now on our way back to LaPaz, where we feel it is the best place to find a buyer for Sojourner. Anyone want to come visit next winter? C E

Greetings from Puerto Escondido

We've just arrived at Puerto Escondido - just south of Loreto if you're following on Google Earth or some other map. All is OK. First internet connection in over a week, and little time at that. May be better tomorrow. E & C

More Islands

Once we leave the marina, we'll be anchoring in some pretty neat places on our way up the sea. Then across to San Carlos on the mainland where we will likely pull Sojourner to be stored in a yard for the summer. As such, we will be back to having limited internet access, so we may not be able to respond as quickly or post to the blog ................well, I guess we haven't been all that regular anyway have we. At any rate, these next two months represent mostly what we came here for. To put things in perspective, it took about 2 months to come all the way here from Oregon. (Has anyone figured out how far that is yet?) Say, maybe that was 2000 miles. We will now have the same time to travel maybe 250 miles. And most travel days will be in the 20 - 50 mile range that we can pretty easily do in the daytime. There will be only one overnight passage, across the Sea of Cortez from the Baja side to San Carlos on the mainland.

These few shots represent the sort of places we'll be anchoring in. Most have beaches and reefs for snorkeling and fishing. And most are reasonably protected from the north winds of winter which should be thinning out as we go. It has been in the 80's the last few days, so things are definitely warming up. More later. E