We're still here.......

Here's a shot of one of the Mexican fishing fleet taken on a recent trip up to the island. If you double click on it, you'll see the famous pelican rig and the fishermen still aboard watching us from the stern. This boat actually just came in and anchored there about 10 minutes before I took this picture.


The above was said with a bit of sarcasm, as the Mexicans have many really nice looking fishing boats too. I just thought this one was kind of special. And, below is a shot of a panga going by - very much like the one we did the whale hunt in. Once again, this is not the great action shot I was hoping to show you. Maybe we just need an expensive camera......to make up for me.

Well, our time here in the Marina is just about up. The end of the month is racing toward us, and we have much to do that isn't getting done. Our excuse right now is that Carnival is going on in LaPaz. Claudia is anxious to tell you about it, so I'll just use it as an excuse for now. I've been very focused on finding a small outboard motor to use with our dinghy. When we set off on this journey, I was committed to not carrying gasoline on board, so we built a rowing dinghy with no motor. Well, it turns out that we typically anchor 1/4 to 1/2 mile off the shore and the good snorkeling and other exploring areas are farther away than that. Long story short, I'm ready to carry gasoline. The boat rows nicely, but when there's a breeze, you can probably figure out the problem.

It's been three days since I wrote the above, and I may have a motor to look at this AM. Smaller than we had hoped, but maybe still good enough. We'll see.

Carnival was a blast. C will still do a show and tell, but from my point of view, this was like a big county or state fair. One serious difference was the cost of food and drink. Beer, available in cans, cold, everywhere at Carnival, was 15 pesos - about $1 US. What do we pay for beer at a fair in the US? Anyway, they set up this big tent thing in a field right across from our Marina. What was this all about? During Carnival, late at night, well after 10:00 PM, we could hear cheering amid cockadoodledoos. The cock fights were in town! When in Mexico...... I walked over with a friend one night to check it out. After paying our entrance and getting patted down, for weapons I guess, we were allowed in. Escorted to nearly the front row down a steep concrete bleacher type affair littered with most everything, we had prime seats in folding chairs. The dirt ring in front of us was maybe 50 or 60 feet in diameter with the colliseum affair growing up all around it. At the top on the far side was a mariachi band to entertain us during the few minutes between fights. The experience was loud, bloody, and exciting. For more detail than that, you'll just have to come down here yourself. I will say that I enjoyed being there and that I would do it again. E

A cruise around LaPaz

This is the waterfront malecon. It is a tiled walkway with palm trees that follows the bay for a number of miles, from one side of town to the end of all the marinas. It is well used by mexican families out for a stroll, runners & of course us Americanos. The malecon has many sculptures along the walkway that are pretty cool to see.

This is our favorite fish taco place. Like many businesses it is attached to the house where the family lives. When the fish (or shrimp) tacos are gone they close up shop. 12 pesos for a taco, yummy!

La Fuente is shop specializing in homemade ice cream and fresh fruit popcicles (paletas). They make their own cones and are a great treat after dinner.

This is a street scene in La Paz. The blue and yellow school bus is typical of the "bus system" they have for getting around town. The cost is 8 pesos. You stand at one of the bus stops and read the list of destinations (which is written on the windshield & side windows of the bus) to decide which one you should jump on. The last time we were on a bus a man and his young son got on after us. The father immediately began to sing a song. When they reached their stop many of those riding the bus gave him coins for his serenade.

Emrick is standing in one of the open shops that are all over town. This one had peppers (of all kinds), pasta, dog food, beans, bird food, rice, vanilla and health products. Other shops specialize in plastic items (including a lot of styrofoam), brooms, mops, etc.

I just had to get this pic in. There are hundreds of vendors with little stands along the streets that sell everything from corn on the cob to tacos to soup to tamales. This one looks like there was a recent change in ownership. The lady who prepares the food sits in the white plastic chair you see to the right when she is not busy.

Road Trip

Last Friday we went on a road trip back to the Pacific side of the Baja to Bahia Magdelena. Our friends Sal and Gloria had their son in town for the week and wanted to take him whale watching. It sounded like a good time and we negotiated a pretty good price as a small group, so off we went.

In another lifetime, six months ago, we started our days at about 4:30 AM every workday. Well, let's just say that we've been sleeping in a bit since then. Anyway, this trip started by having to be in the parking lot, dressed, lunches made and packed, and ready to go at 6:30. OK. At least when the van pulled up it was a good looking late model Ford that had decent tread on the tires and everything. The driver was a very respectable looking Mexican man who spoke no English, but left us with the feeling that he would be a responsible driver - which he did prove to be. Traveling with us were a Mexican woman and young man, probably the driver's family, who also spoke no English. So, off we went at a high rate of speed along a narrow two lane highway. As we were in the back of the van, and the road had a wide variety of bumps and lumps, it was quite a thrill. For three hours, we traveled through the Baja desert with fantastic cactus and dirt poor small towns. Oh, how could I forget......about 15 minutes out of LaPaz, we pulled over for a traffic check. Those of you who drive in and out of California are used to the fruit inspection stops. The difference here was that we were inspected by several young men in uniform carrying automatic weapons. Actually, believe it or not, we're getting used to seeing Mexican Police, military, and who knows what else driving around in trucks with these armed men in the back. There really is a serious conflict here between the Government and the Drug Cartels.





Well, we did reach San Carlos on time about three hours later and were happy to exit the van and find clean bathrooms at our tour Hq. Then on to the boat which, of course, turned out to be a panga. I promise to get you a picture. These things are everywhere in Mexico, used by all the local fishermen, and they all look the same, as if by the same manufacturer. We've seen them as far out as 20 miles in good conditions and bad. An open fiberglass boat about 20 - 22 feet in length with a big outboard motor, white outside and blue inside. You haven't lived until you've ridden in a panga at 25 - 30 mph in search of whales in 3 -4 foot waves. Nuff said.

And we did see whales - grey whales I believe - some of them up close and personal. I thought our driver was getting a little close a few times, but the whales didn't seem to mind. Pretty exciting!! E

Fish story

Some people have asked if we've been doing any fishing. Well, yes we have. People come here from all over the world for the fishing, and the marinas are loaded with big fishing boats. But they haven't been going out since we got here. "There's no fish here this time of year" we're told. I'm not sure what that means. We can still buy good cheap fish tacos, and the fish markets still have lots of fish for sale.
When we were in Marina San Jose (near Cabo san Lucas) at Christmas time I was talking with fishermen on vacation who were catching lots of fish. In fact, we met a particularly friendly young captain on our dock there who took an interest in us. We had been towing a "tuna rig" from a hand line on the way down with no success whatsoever. He determined that the line was too short and that our boat speed was too slow for the big plastic hoola skirt to be of any use. He checked out our saltwater rod and reel and said that this is what we should be using. He also gave us a couple of lures that would jiggle and dance even at our speed.
On our first trip out to the island a few weeks ago, I tossed the lure in behind us, let it run out for a hundred yards or so, and waited. It wasn't long before the reel went wizzzzzz which meant that a fish was taking the line. Oh Boy! I grabbed the rod, gave it a jerk and tried to feel what was going on at the other end of the line. There was definitely something there, pulling on the line with a fair amout of strength, but not jerking the line the way I remembered from using lightweight tackle in Minnesota years ago. So I started trying to wind it in. After a couple minutes, all of a sudden, there was nothing on the line anymore. Gone, just like that. I reeled in the line and found that our lure was still there, so back in it went.
About 15 minutes later, wizzzzzzz. I grabbed the pole and this time gave it a big jerk to try and set the hook and, sure enough, there was something on there again. And it was bigger than last time. I still couldn't feel tugging like when a small fish is on your line. Just this serious hard pull. This thing was taking a lot of line, so I tightened the drag as much as I thought the line could stand and then we began. I'd get to crank some line in, then it would drag some more off the reel. I'd get some in, and then lose it back. Finally, it felt like I was making more progress than I was losing. We kept looking behind the boat expecting to see this big thing leap out of the water, but no such luck. Still cranking, still loosing some. Then, after 30 minutes of fighting this thing, it was over. The fish was gone. It had gotten off the lure again. ##$@%^&&%$#**&*%.
Since then, I've caught a number of small - 6-8 inch - fish on the lightweight spinning rig which get thrown back in, and we've had the big rig in the water some more, but no more wizzzz.
We will keep trying.......... E

The Islands et al

Approaching Isla Espiritu Santo on a very calm morning. The sea is like a pond.













The Hunter 45' "Friendship" underway. What
a great boat to party on!!!













The Admiral doing a turn at the helm.













Check out the cacti growing out of this rock.










Yes, Maxine has been enjoying the Sea of Cortez
too.













Master and Commander (I'll probably
get into trouble for that one)










Sojourner at anchor.













Hanali at sunset. It was actually a lot
brighter than it looks.

As Good as it gets

It’s Friday AM, somewhere between 9:00 and 11:00. Sojourner is southbound having just left a magnificent anchorage where we spent last night with friends on two other boats. Sal & Gloria on the floating suburban home “Friendship”, and Mitch & Laura from “Hanali”, a boat very much like our own Bristol 32. The sea is flat, as blue as the sky, and there’s just enough wind to keep our sails full and to move us gently along our way at 3 knots – about the speed of a brisk walk – with about 15 miles to go to our marina. The windvane is steering so there’s nothing we have to do, Caudia is getting her dose of sun, I’m reclined at the helm in the shade of the sails just looking at the beautiful day and listening to the clear water gurgle by as I write. Life is good. This must be what we came here for; the same vision that likely prompted the many folks who “wished we could do that!” when told of our plan to make this trip. Wow! I just got a flash of how Jimmy Buffet might feel. You know people actually pay him to do things like this. To do things that they can’t, and go places that they can’t, and it helps them to imagine that they are there, doing them in some vicarious sort of way. Food for thought. For some reason, I’m just reminded of something that has needed to be said for some time. A very large thank you to those readers who have made comments to this blog. It is so helpful to get ideas of what you like to read about. Really, the writing is fairly easy. It’s figuring out what to write about that’s difficult. So please, just click on the word comments after any post and say a few words. Aside from the weather, which turns out to be almost perfect, we came here to the Sea of Cortez for what we hoped would be excellent sailing. And, we have recently experienced some of that as described above. About 12 – 15 miles up the coast from our marina are Isla Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida two islands that together offer about a dozen good/safe anchorages in their many inlets and small bays. We have made two three day trips up there recently and been largely rewarded for it. The sailing is like being on a large lake. No swells and no huge waves. We’ve had dead calm to motor in, an amazing afternoon doing 6 knots with wind on the beam, and everything in between. What a joy!! I’ll include here some pics from the islands, but again I apologize for my inability to get more into the lens. They are desert, volcanic, and richly colored. Also check out the many cacti, something we’re getting used to seeing but that still seems totally foreign. There are also many smaller islands and rocks and reefs in the area. We have been able to float the dinghy near and over reefs and see the fishes as in an aquarium. Really neat! And as always, the birds – pelicans especially – provide unlimited entertainment. I’ve tried and tried to get a couple pics of these ungainly creatures, and one day I’ll get one worthy of posting.
Some folks have asked us for what we plan this spring et al. So here it is. We will stay here in Marina Palmira , La Paz through February – carnival is the 19th thru 24th here. Then we plan to sail North into the Sea from one anchorage to another to visit some places we’ve heard about, taking our time to reach Guaymas and San Carlos by mid April where we’ll explore a bit before having Sojourner hauled out of the water and put up on land for the summer. We think we’ll take a bus from there to somewhere in Arizona where we’ll rent a car and make our way home to Grants Pass sometime mid May. E

La Paz pics

We arrived in La Paz hoping to find a slip in Marina de La Paz but that was not to be. Instead we found an opening in Marina Palmira. There are four marinas here but it is crowded! Our marina is beautiful & has all of the services you need. We are about 2-3 miles from the town of La Paz & take a shuttle when we need to. The first pic is Lucy the goose. She patrols the docks & waterways, a survivor of the 2003 hurricane. She lives in the marina & is fed by about everyone (even me). She talks to you & will come to you when you call her name (but you better have vegetables or bread in hand). We have met many new friends, some of which we sail to the island with (more on that later). It is beautiful here, some hot days, some windy days & some in between. We have been "getting the lay of the land" (that would be finding the grocery stores, best restaurants & bars & just checking things out) for the past few weeks. La Paz is the capitol of the Baja California Sur with over 190,000 in population. It is translated as "The Peace". C